Monday, February 15, 2016

Found: The Watch That Would (Not) Be King: A Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Made For King Edward VIII

This vintage Reverso is one with a stronger than usual connection to history, and it's a memento of a crisis.  Engraved on the back with a dedication to a king, it would never be worn by its intended recipient.  It now reposes in the Jaeger-LeCoultre museum collection, a silent testimony to a moment when a king had to choose between a woman, and his kingdom.

Edward VIII always knew his relationship with Wallis Simpson, an American divorcée, would make him an unpopular King. But the death of his father, King George V, precipitated his ascension to the throne on January, 20 1936. Tormented between his responsibilities as the new Head of the Church of England and his unholy relationship with Simpson, Edward would spend his first months on the throne seeking the counsel of those around him, including the Prime Minister. Could Simpson be his Queen?

Amidst all the uncertainty and anxiety attending his ascension to the throne, the presence of almost any watch dwindles into insignificance, but for what history buffs, the provenance of this watch exerts considerable fascination.  Jaeger-LeCoutlre’s Reverso had been a popular choice amongst royals since its introduction in 1931. And it was certainly the most British Swiss-made watch of the 1930s, having been developed specifically for officers of the Empire stationed in India to protect their timepieces during grueling polo matches. The timepieces quickly caught the eye of the international elite who wished to have engravings and enamel portraits on the other side of the swiveling case.

Edward's bespoke Reverso was surprisingly demure considering the opulence that usually accompanies the momentous and rare crowing of a British monarch. The King of England would be wearing a simple watch; a two-tone Reverso Calibre 411, the first model with central seconds in the collection, in stainless steel and yellow gold.

On the dial side, the watch offers no hint of its Royal lineage. Instead, it features an elegant white face, with Arabic numerals painted in black and baton indices at 3 and 9 o'clock. Hours and minutes are elegantly displayed by large yellow gold dauphine hands (brought back this year for the collection’s 85th anniversary).

However, looks can be deceiving, and offering surprises is the stock in trade of the JLC Reverso. The identity of its recipient was engraved on the underside of the case; his name, future crown and coronation date leaving no doubt about its intended recipient or the upcoming occasion.

But perhaps the engraving had been chosen a little too soon.  The watch carries the King's name, and the year 1937, but by 1937, Edward was no longer king. In an unprecedented step in the history of the British monarchy, Edward would eventually announce his abdication on December, 11 1936, cancelling his coronation to share his life with the woman he loved instead of sitting on the British throne alone.

Fit for a King, his Reverso would, in fact, never belong to one. Instead, its engraving is a reminder of Edward’s hesitancy right up until the last minute, before he was conquered by the love of an American woman.

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