Introducing: The Limited Edition Autodromo Group B Evoluzione

Last November, the car-inspired watch brand Autodromo released the Group B – a cool stainless-steel watch inspired by 1980s rally racers, featuring a stainless-steel chassis and titanium case. Well, this was not enough for founder and creator Bradley Price – he has taken it one step further with the Group B Evoluzione, a limited series of 200 pieces (available in blue and yellow) featuring a larger case and an aluminum chassis.

The original Group B was inspired by lightweight racing cars classified under the Group B classification by the FIA (Fédération Internationale de l'Automobile), which also regulates Formula 1. Group B cars were some of the fastest and most powerful rally cars ever, and during their heyday in the 1980s they were incredibly popular – but their speed and power made them accident prone, and the classification was shut down in 1986.

The new Group B Evoluzione watches continue to draw on these "golden age of rallying" cars for inspiration. The original Group B watches were made of two pieces – the hand-finished stainless-steel chassis that holds the movement and the titanium case with fixed-bar lugs. The watch measures 39 mm in diameter and weighs 52 grams. The new Evoluzione is built on the same concept – however the chassis is made of CNC-milled aluminum with a 42 mm titanium case, and weighs only 45 grams.

Additionally, unlike its predecessor, the Evoluzione is deliberately not hand-finished. The Evoluzione aluminum cases are "taken straight from the CNC machine" according to Autodromo; and the result is a texture reflecting the machining process. It's a deliberately raw approach that's produced a very different kind of watch – one that is light, easy to wear, and very industrial in look and feel; Autodromo says the intention was to "achieve an aesthetic that is both beautiful, and honest to the manufacturing process."

Inside the Evoluzione, you will find the same Japanese-made Miyota caliber 9015 automatic movement that is found in the original Group B. Furthermore, the watches come with a handmade aluminum collectors box with four team-colored nylon racing straps that feature the same cross-stitching as the seat-belts found in Group B-era racing cars.

The watches retail for $1,100 and are available in a limited series of 200 pieces. For more information on Autodromo, visit the website here.

Photos: Will Holloway

Announcing: The HODINKEE Pop-Up Shop At Harrods In London

Calling all Londoners (and anyone living in Britain)! HODINKEE is excited to announce that we are hosting a pop-up shop at Harrods in London from June 9th to 12th.

The HODINKEE Pop-Up Shop will feature a fantastic selection of vintage watches for you to try on and purchase on the spot. Some highlights include a Rolex Submariner Reference 1680, a Breguet Type 20 with box and papers, and a yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date reference 1806 with grey dial and Morellis bracelet.

On the accessories side, we'll have all of our customer favorites available, including a number of our HODINKEE Italian vintage style watch straps, our range of calfskin watch straps, several of our top selling travel rolls and pouches, and much, much more. We will also have a selection of spring bar tools, Loupe System for HODINKEE sets, and SwissKubik watch winders.

Join us at Harrods to try out our straps, rolls, and watches in person and get a chance to meet some of the HODINKEE team. Please note that because most of our staff will be in London hosting the Pop-Up, we will not be selling watches online next week (June 8th), but will resume upon our return. We hope to see you in London!

HODINKEE at Harrods

Harrods
The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor
87-135 Brompton Road
London
SW1X 7XL

Thursday, June 9th: 10:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Friday, June 10th: 10:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Saturday, June 11th: 10:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Sunday, Jun 12th: 11:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

The (Possibly Apocryphal) Story Of Who Invented Geneva Stripes, Heard At Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi

In every field there are things that everyone takes for granted – usually because of their ubiquity, or because they've been around forever, or both. In watchmaking, there are a lot of these, thanks to how long watchmaking has been around, and also thanks to its fundamentally incremental nature. Spring bars are a good example; certain aspects of movement decoration are another. Of the latter, there might be nothing more ubiquitous than Geneva stripes, or waves, or, to give them their proper name, Côtes de Genève. They can be seen, executed to varying degrees of fineness, in watches at just about every price point imaginable, but when were they first used, and why?  

Movement finishing exists for many reasons: as a manifestation of craft; purely for aesthetic appeal; as a natural outgrowth of care in manufacturing and pride in the quality of one's work. Geneva stripes seem to be purely decorative (like the beautiful openworking and anglage seen in the Audemars Piguet Double Balance Squelette, below) but they're not, as it turns out. After  thinking about the why and when of their creation, for many years in an idle way, it finally occurred to me that it might not be a bad idea to ask someone who would might actually know the answer, and this week, while visiting Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi, I asked Giulio Papi (one of the co-founders, and one of the most important figures in modern movement design and watchmaking) if he might know the origin story of Côtes de Genève. Unsurprisingly, he did.

According to Papi, Geneva stripes were invented as a way, believe it or not, of breaking a strike. Geneva stripes, as it turns out, were originally intended to serve a functional purpose, which was and is to capture dust particles that might otherwise migrate into delicate functional movement parts. "When you close a watch case," Papi explained, "you also enclose an atmosphere, and there are dust particles inside as well." The texture of Geneva stripes is meant to catch such particles, and for that reason, the texture has to be neither too rough, nor too smooth.

The story goes that movement engraving was once meant to serve such a purpose as well. Over 100 years ago, however, the Geneva engravers went on strike, and in order to avoid meeting their demands, watch manufacturers developed an industrial process that could fulfill the same practical function: the making of Côtes de Genève.  Supposedly, this allowed the Genevan watchmakers to fire all the engravers in less than a week.

Giulio Papi says he has never seen the story written down anywhere, and I've certainly never heard it before, though I have heard that Côtes de Genève were originally intended to capture dust grains. (Papi also remarked that when evaluating Côtes de Genève, you should look at where the stripes meet the anglage; the plane of the stripes should be more or less level, to avoid making an unsightly transition). Papi says he heard the story in watchmaking school from one of his instructors, so it may be apocryphal – one of those persistent urban legends you find in so many time-honored professions. The time frame proposed in the story sounds about right; you can see perlage used to finish movements in the mid-19th century, so it's possible that Côtes de Genève developed naturally from that. Whatever the case, however, it's interesting to reflect that what most of us think of as a purely decorative element in a watch might originally have been intended not just to please the eye, but also to help the watch run more reliably – and to put a bunch of rebellious craftsmen out of work.

Naissance d'une Montre Prototype From Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour, And Michel Boulanger Sells For $1.46 Million At Christie's Hong Kong

In 2006, a handful of the world's leading independent watchmakers joined forces to ensure that the traditional craft of horology would not be lost. Leading the way were Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour, two qualified teachers if there ever were some. The group chose a Paris-based watchmaker named Michel Boulanger to act as apprentice and learn the art of watchmaking in a traditional sense – the project would be called "Le Garde Temps - Naissance D'Une Montre", and would result in 11 timepieces to be sold to continue to fund the project. Today, in Hong Kong, the "school watch", or prototype, sold at Christie's – and it did so for over $1.46 million.

This watch is the working prototype where Mr. Boulanger first executive the traditional practices imparted on him by Mr. Dufour and those at Greubel Forsey. It is, for all intents and purpose, the watch that they hope to start a revolution in traditional watchmaking – one where a new generation of talent will be strive to learn how to do things the old fashioned way. The remaining 11 Naissance D'une Montre will be delivered over the next few years, with a price of around $420,000 (as of January this year). As for the $1.46 made today? 100% of it will go back to the Le Garde Temps project, and Christie's itself will donate the buyer's premium back to the project as well – in hopes of bringing on another apprentice and furthering the education of young talents all over the world. You can read more about it and see the lot information right here.

Watch Spotting: Patrick Dempsey, Wearing A Monaco, In Monaco, During The Monaco Grand Prix

American actor Patrick Dempsey wore a TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 ‘McQueen’ Chronograph, while attending the Monaco Grand Prix as a guest of TAG Heuer. I know, because I had the pleasure of watching the race with him this weekend and ended up, like so many others, taking a few snaps of him, though I seemed to be the only one interested in his choice of watch.

Known for his work on screen, and his recurring role in Grey’s Anatomy, Dempsey is also a keen racing driver, and has participated in a number of prestigious events, finishing second at last year's 24 Hours of Le Mans, in the GTE-Am class (with a team he co-owns). However, this was his first time attending the Monaco Grand Prix and he eyes were firmly on the track from Saturday morning's practice sessions to the final lap of the race today.

Dempsey famously became a close friend of the Swiss manufacture, after purchasing a vintage Monaco, found in Belgium. However, he told me he did not like wearing it “while traveling.” Perfectly executing his ambassadorial duties this weekend, Dempsey wore the new-ish Monaco Calibre 11, and seemed delighted to be asked to model - not for a selfie - but for a wristshot after the race.

I happen to have had the pleasure of wearing and reviewing the exact same watch over the weekend on HODINKEE Live. I've already shared my feelings of it there, but I'll repeat myself and say it is, in terms of design, almost a genuine copy-paste version of the original Ref. 1133B, from the red-filled hour and minute hands and red markers every 5-mins, to the horizontal indices, and the much loved blue and white dial combination. But substantial changes have been made to the movement.

Generally, I have to say I really enjoyed the left-hand position of the crown. Not only is it a cool throwback to the original 'McQueen' Monaco, it brings the overall size of the watch down since it no longer touches the top of the wrist. In theory, the crown should be manipulated much less than the chronograph pushers anyways. It's a little odd at first - remember to set it before you place it on the wrist - but it's not the nuisance you would imagine it to be.

For more information, please visit the TAG Heuer website. Oh, and if vintage is your thing, check out Ben's Week on the Wrist review of the original Monaco here.

A Look At The Highlights Of The Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: Two

Though some collectors haven’t yet picked up their latest purchases from the Geneva sales, Phillips is back with a new – and this time much larger – selection of watches, in Hong Kong, for an auction curated specifically for the Southeast Asian market. And while some of the region’s most important collectors were also in Geneva, and collectors from all over the world are expected to follow this weekend’s sale, this is the auction house’s second sale at the Mandarin Oriental, in Central Hong Kong. Here are eight lots that should star during the sale, and yes, you’ve guessed it, these are all in the upper-echelon of the vintage market (a section Phillips dominates).

Eric Clapton's (Potentially) Unique Patek Philippe 5004P

In most cases, the watch makes the collector. But not when the watch was once part of the Eric Clapton collection. The most well-known celebrity collector has owned some of the finest Patek Phillipe and Rolex watches in the market, including this platinum reference 5004 with a special blue tachymeter dial. Given the influence Clapton has had on many collectors, they should pounce at the chance to add one that has spent most of its days on his wrist. The watch is no longer the legendary singer/songwriter’s, but that shouldn’t dampen the excitement around this exquisite perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph. Other lots have higher estimates, but this one is up there, with the hammer expected to fall somewhere between HK $2,800,000 to $4,400,000. More here.

A 1950s Patek Philippe Dual-Crown Wold-Timer In Pink Gold (Reference 2523)

Here’s a familiar reference. When you consider how few two-crown world timers Louis Cottier made for Patek Phillipe, it’s rather incredible to be seeing two examples up for sale in the same month. Two weeks ago, Christie's sold a yellow gold example (reference 2523/1) for CHF 1,121,000. This time, it’s Phillips’s turn, with a possibly unique pink-gold example, which happens to be the case material favored by the Southeast Asian market. The estimate is HK $12,000,000 to $20,000,000. More here.

Patek Philippe 2499 Third Series In Pink Gold

The most coveted perpetual calendar chronograph of the 21st century, reference 2499 cemented its reputation at the very top with another very strong performance in Geneva. But that model was a first series, in yellow gold. The third series – made approximately from 1960 through 1978 – is more readily available, and thus less desirable (collectors also tend to prefer the rectangular chrono pushers of the original model to the mushroom ones of the second and third series). Except when it’s in pink gold. Only six examples were ever made – making it the rarest pink-gold models across any other series – and this one is believed to be unique among them because the dial aperture at 6’clock is flat. It should also be said the combination of pink gold for the case and ivory for the dial is incredibly attractive, perhaps more so, in my humble opinion, then with a gold case. Will it be enough to beat a first series? Phillips thinks so, with an estimate of HK $9,000,000 to $18,000,000. Details here.

Patek Philippe seldom makes skeletonized pieces, and even less titanium cases. In fact, this reference 5180 is a pièce unique made in 2009 for the Children Action charity. The watch raised raised CHF 520,000 when it was originally sold, and Phillips believes it could hammer in for much more this time around. The watch is presented in almost NOS condition, and comes with the original certificate. The estimate is HK $2,700,000 to  $4,000,000. Details here.

Pink Gold Pisa Edition Patek Philippe Calatrava

The big news out of Geneva was the incredible performance of uncomplicated Patek Phillipe watches, particularly those with Breguet numerals. Following that logic, this rare pink-gold limited edition with sweep center seconds should attract interest, even though it is technically a modern PP – the watch was made in 2008 to commemorate the opening of the Patek Phillipe boutique in Milan, Italy. Some would prefer the watch without the date; consider me one of them. Still, Phillips seem confident it will find a buyer in the HK $300,000 to $500,000 range. More here.

Omega Speedmaster Reference 2915-2

Of all the historically important Speedmasters – and there are many highly collectible ones – the "Broad Arrow” is considered THE definitive reference. Nicknamed after its iconic hour and minute hands, reference 2915 was launched in 1957, but production would only last three years, making it one of the hardest to find. It is easily identifiable because of its Tacho-Productometer scale – the name given to the stainless-steel tachymeter scale bezel with, as well as the early typography used for the words Omega and “Speedmaster" on the dial. The estimate is HK $320,000 to $500,000. More here.

Rolex Reference 6238 Gold Retailed By Cartier

Also known as the "pre-Daytona” because it precedes THE Daytona by a few years, reference 6238 is a highly collectible piece of Rolex’s history. Just this week, we spotted an extremely rare black dial version in yellow gold during the Concorso d’Eleganza and most were in fact made in one of two shades of silver such as the one in this sale. However, the example found by Phillips crucially features another well known name on its dial, as it was retailed by Cartier, making it possibly unique. And for that reason, the estimate has been placed between HK $1,700,000 and $3,200,000. More here.

These are just a few highlights, and the sale includes many other interesting pieces including some sealed 5 series Pateks, enamel-dialed Rolexes, a split-seconds Eberhard, Explorer-dial Sub, and more. Check out the whole calendar here.

Bring a Loupe: A Chronometre Royal From Vacheron Constantin, A Rare Longines Diver, A Military Omega Seamaster, And More

This week, Bring A Loupe offers a wide selection of vintage pieces – all outstanding watches with their own merits. You will find a sensational dive watch from Longines, a dress watch from Vacheron Constantin, and a chronograph from Heuer – and it doesn't stop there. This is your Bring A Loupe for May 27, 2016.

A Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal Reference 6111 With Original Box

"Chronomètre Royal" – the name was ambitious, but Vacheron Constantin's watches made under that name more than lived up to it. It all started with ultra precise pocket watches in the beginning of the 20th Century, but in the 1950s, it was all about exemplary wristwatches, such as this reference 6111 with the gorgeous integrated "Maltese" lugs, similar to the ones from the Patek Philippe reference 2568-2. The manual-wound caliber 1008BS is pretty spectacular in its design too, and offers hacking seconds, a pretty rare feature at the time. Here, the central seconds makes this watch even more modern looking. This example comes with a crisp case, and the original box, while the seller notes a replaced crown. As expected, you can read the name of this VC proudly engraved on its case back.

The dealer Vesper & Co. is offering this outstanding chronometer for $12,450 here; it comes with the original box and a certificate from Vacheron Constantin.

A Longines Diver Reference 7042-2 With Early Dial

The "Swiss" marking on the dial and the small lume dots near 3,6,9, and 12 o'clock, indicate a primitive version of the Longines Diver, probably the most desirable vintage execution of this iconic 42 mm dive watch, and still produced by Longines to this day. The two cross-hatched crowns are characteristic of the Super Compressor case, where increasing pressure of the water actually tightens the case back, thereby increasing the waterproof resistance of the case – on this reference guaranteed to a depth of 100 meters. The dive time can be measured on the inner bezel, which is rotated by the upper crown, while the lower one connects to the small automatic caliber 19AS. Additionally, this diver comes with a Longines-signed, stainless-steel bracelet, very likely original to the watch according to the reference article here.

Matthew Bain is offering this rare (and gorgeous) diving watch here.

An Angelus Chronodato With Yellow-Gold Case

As is so often the case with eBay, the picture in this listing does not really do the watch any justice. This solid-gold Angelus appears to be in outstanding condition, with a crisp dial and a well-preserved case. The Chronodato remains one of the most emblematic wristwatches; introduced in 1942, this Angelus was the first chronograph with a triple calendar, produced in 1942. The two complications are flawlessly combined on a very legible dial thanks to the date windows, which would become a standard for the industry. Even better, this watch comes with a set of instructions from Angelus; the document seems original to the watch, and explains how to use the renowned caliber 217. As the seller points out, the movement will need a service, and the minute hand shows oxidation.

This Angelus Chronodato can be found on eBay here; at the time of publishing had just gone over $2,000.

A Wittnauer Electric With Distinctive Handset

The Wittnauer Electro-Chron stands out thanks to its unique lightening handset; we recently covered a pretty special example here. The dial of this Wittnauer indicates an early reference, dating from the very beginning of the 1960s (hence the "Electric" on the dial) while later versions say "Electro-Chron." The movement of this unusual watch is pretty interesting too: the caliber Landeron 4750 might be battery-powered, but it features a regulating balance that you would expect in more "traditional" caliber (you can find the full specs here).

You can find this Wittnauer offered for $500 here, and it comes with its original box.

A Military Omega Seamaster 30 For The Pakistani Air Force

The Pakistan Air Force has a long history of providing Omega watches to its pilots, especially Railmaster and Seamaster models. Over time, those became highly coveted by collectors, and as it often happens in the vintage world, frequently faked. The "P.A.F." engravings on the case back should always be considered with suspicion; luckily, this Seamaster 30 from 1964 was fully confirmed by the Omega Museum, with the serial number of the movement matching the military delivery in the Archives of the manufacture. This 37 mm Seamaster also features the distinctive wide baton hands of the military version, but unfortunately they have lost their lume. The seller also indicates that the manual-wound caliber 286 was recently serviced, so there should be no mechanical issues.

A UK-based dealer just listed this military Seamaster here.

A Heuer Autavia Reference 7763 With Compressor Case

The reference 7763 is characteristic of the later execution of the Autavia in the end of the 1960s, when the larger Compressor-type case replaced the initial screw-back case with thinner lugs. The great balance of the dial was not lost in the move, while the manual-wound chronograph movement for the two-register also evolved from the Valjoux 92 to the more recent caliber Valjoux 7730. Here, you can see some small nicks on the MH bezel (the name comes from the dual display of minutes and hours), but nothing dramatic. Note that the angle of the pictures does not really facilitate checking the originality of the crown, but it looks fine nonetheless.

You can find this later Autavia on eBay here; at the time of publishing, bidding had just reached $4,500.

Introducing: The Drake's For HODINKEE 2016 Limited Edition Genta Pocket Square

It’s been a little over a year since we released a new collaboration with Drake’s of London – in November 2014, we launched a pocket square with Drake's that paid tribute to one of the most influential men in the watch world – Mr. Gerald Genta. We took two of his greatest works, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, and used the shape of their trademark bezels to create the pattern. That limited edition was so popular that we decided to bring the design back in a new version.

Drake’s is the place for menswear and has been for almost 40 years. They make everything from custom shirts, ties, and other men’s accessories – so it should come as no surprise that we have partnered with them again to bring you the highest quality horological-inspired pocket squares.

The new edition is part of a limited series of 150 pieces, and each has been made by hand in Italy with the same supple silk and wool blend as the 2014 version. The 2016 pocket square features a medium blue background with contrasting navy blue coloring for the Nautilus and Royal Oak bezel outline – essentially the reverse of the original 2014 version.

The 2014 versions sold out quickly (in less than six hours to be exact), so don’t wait too long to get yours. Click here for the full listing.