This week we will focus on some vintage watches that are a little off the beaten path. You know the names Zenith, Omega, and Heuer, of course, and their more famous models, but I bet you are much less familiar with the Zenith S.58 Diver, the Certina Argonaut, and the Montblanc chronograph we found (and no, it's not from the pen company). Yet, all these uncommon pieces have a little special something – this is your Bring A Loupe for July 1, 2016.
A Dressy Omega Reference 6899 In Pink Gold
Omega is well known for the Speedmaster, and of course for its sports and technical watches in general, but they have always made really beautiful dress watches as well, as proven here by the reference 6899. This one is elegant with a capital E, from the 36 mm rose-gold case to the two-tone dial with sharp dauphine hands. It looked smashing in the 1950s and still does today, proving that great design ages well; just look at the balance of the cross-hair sub-second! And for the sake of convenience, it is powered by an automatic movement (the Omega caliber 491), so you won't have to manually wind your watch like your grandfather used to do.
The dealer Matthew Bain is offering this gorgeous Omega for $4,900 here.
A Certina Argonaut Chronograph Reference 8401 501
Panda dials are always very seductive, and this Certina is no exception. The square case design is from the late 1960s, and luckily the edges are crisp and well preserved, as is the contrast between brushed and polished surfaces. Furthermore, it comes with a Certina-signed beads-of-rice bracelet, and some pretty great patinated lume. Inside, you will find the caliber Valjoux 23 – a classic lateral clutch, column-wheel, hand-wound movement – performing the chronograph function, as indicated by the red accents on the dial and red center chronograph seconds hand.
This Certina is listed for 2,500€ (or around $2,780) on Rarebirds website here; note that this dealer also offers the reverse panda variation as well.
A Zenith S.58 Diver With Bakelite Bezel
The reference S.58 is a fairly obscure diver from Zenith, but its good looks deserve more recognition. Launched in 1958, it first came with a manual-wound caliber 120 without date, before transitioning to the automatic movement 2542 with a date complication, as seen here. The dial was either black or grey, each with its own merits, and luminous numerals are reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer. While the first version had a smooth bezel, the latter boasts a splendid black bakelite bezel. With a peculiar lumed dauphine handset, this diver looks pretty unique within Zenith's production, but still bears the characteristic star crown – as well as a very deeply engraved case back, to make sure you remember this outstanding reference.
A French collector is offering this rare Zenith diver on a forum's marketplace here, and he is considering offers above $8,000.
A Zenith Defy Reference A3648 With Orange Dial
Another dive watch from Zenith, the Defy A3648, with its octogonal case and bright colors, is radically different from the S.58. Indeed, the whole watch is a great example of a combination of all the elements to be found in a technical dive watch from the 1960s or '70s, with a sturdy case, distinctive and heavily lumed hands, and bright orange dial. Along with the great design comes great water resistance – it's rated to 600 meters, making it competitive with watches like the Omega Ploprof and the Rolex Sea-Dweller. Like many vintage Zeniths, its folded bracelet was manufactured by the famed bracelet maker Gay Frères. Even better, this Defy comes full set, with papers documenting its sale in Argentina in 1971.
The seller is considering offers above 3,000 euros (or around $3,500) here.
A Gold Heuer Carrera 2456T
The Heuer Carrera, one of the most iconic chronographs ever designed, needs no introduction (especially to regular HODINKEE readers). But the rarity of yellow-gold examples must be emphasized. You really don't see those references around often, as gold was thought inappropriate for sport watches at the time. Gold case aside, however, this is still a classic Carrera. Everything we love about the watch in steel is there, from the coveted faceted lugs to the neatly legible dial that made Heuer so famous, with a red tachymeter scale. As with its three-register steel counterparts, this gold variant is powered by the caliber Valjoux 72 chronograph movement. And you get a crisp case and spotless dial, as you should always aim for with vintage Heuer.
Analog/Shift is selling this brilliant Carrera for $16,000 here.
A Montblanc Chronograph With Unusual Date Placement
For sure, this chronograph has nothing to do with the pen company, which launched its own line of watches much later than the 1970s. We couldn't find much about the history of this chronograph, especially since the movement and case back are unsigned. Nonetheless, its good looks are obvious, with an attractive flat bezel and striking orange center chronograph seconds hand. The date window at 6 o'clock indicates that the manufacturer used the reliable Valjoux 7734, which can also be found in the contemporary Tudor Monte Carlo.
The Italian dealer CasoWatches just listed this rather enigmatic chronograph here, with a 3,500 euro (or around $3,900) asking price.
A Bulova Chronograph Type C, With Prototype Handset?
We featured this 43 mm chronograph from Bulova two months ago on Bring A Loupe here. Yet, there is a major difference between the one we have today and most of the examples I've seen: the color of the handset. The regular configuration is red; this one has hands in a very flashy orange. The seller accounts for his by representing this watch as a prototype – hence this colorful configuration that I can only remember seeing elsewhere in a similar chronograph that was branded Kelek. It is hard to say whether the handset is absolutely correct, but the shape of the hands matches the usual production red versions, and the orange color is certainly in line with the overall funkiness of the watch.
You can find this Bulova Type C offered on Instagram here.
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