We all know who the heavy hitters were this year. So let’s start by getting them out of the way. The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in stainless steel, the Seiko Spring Drive 8 Days, anything Tudor, and the Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Tourbillon are, as you know by now, on our most wanted list. Needless to say these were also my favorites. But in an effort to keep things interesting for you, and because honestly other watches impressed me too, here are seven watches that deserve some attention.
1. The Zenith El Primero 36,000 VpH Classic Cars
Leave it to Zenith to come up with the coolest chronograph of the fair. They haven’t added any complications on top of their chronograph, going instead with a straight update of its the hugely popular 36,000 VpH. Introduced in 2013, the 42 mm stainless steel chronograph with tri-color dial continues to be one of their most popular models. This time, Zenith have gone with an anthracite dial brushed with "Geneva stripes," which looks very good. Oh and they’ve moved the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock back and behind the small seconds and minute counters – which makes the chronograph display much more coherent in my humble opinion. Zenith haa really been going after relatively niche but logical partnerships with vintage automobiles, and after a couple of misses, they have found their hit. The Zenith El Primero 36,000 VpH Classic Cars is priced at $6,900.
2. The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Annuel GMT
An annual calendar combined with a GMT function? It’s an original combination, and the kind you’d expect a blue chip brand such as Blancpain to case in a precious material. And that’s exactly how they introduced the watch back in 2011. But they had the guts to re-introduce it in stainless steel and it now has the looks of the old for a fraction of the price (it's still $27,300 though). I really like the logic of the digital day, date, and month sequence, but that might be my European bias. The day and month windows are not where you’d expect them to be; same with the adjustment pushers (located under the lugs, so you can manipulate them without having to use a tool) but that shows me Blancpain – a Swatch Group brand – has its own way of doing things and isn’t afraid to take some risks.
3. The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence
Based solely on the number of new references, you’d think this was a small year for Glashütte Original. But don't underestimate them. The introduction of Calibre 36, and the three watches already equipped with it, shows the manufacture’s ability – a single barrel caliber with a 100-hour power reserve is impressive – and its understanding of current consumer needs. It is presented in a 40 mm stainless-steel case at a good price ($9,700). Better yet, they are offering two dial options that are stylistically opposite right off to the bat. Collectors can choose from a classic dress watch or a pilot-themed watch loosely inspired by the Senator Observer. My personal choice would be the latter.
4. The Frédérique Constant Perpetual Calendar
Remember last year, when Montblanc released a sub $15,000 manufacture made perpetual calendar? It was groundbreaking stuff, and we thought it would take a few years before we’d see that record tumble. So imagine our reaction when Frédérique Constant dropped a modular in-house perpetual calendar for $8,700? Don’t let them tell you it’s an affordable perpetual calendar, but it might be the closest we get to one in years. In terms of design, the complication is presented in its purest form, with a classic day, date, month and moon phase display which uses negative space to its advantage.
5. The Patek Philippe World Time Reference 5230
“What do you think of Patek Philippe’s new collection?” may be the most unoriginal Baselworld question in the history of Baselworld, yet we continue to fall for the irresistible debate it creates. 5930G was a sequence of numbers and letters we heard a lot last week, as journalists and collectors wondered: why exactly did Patek combine a world time complication module to an existing chronograph movement? Jack shared his thoughts on the new reference here. Personally, I preferred the other world timer. Reference 5230 may not be a wholly original watch, being an update of an existing line, but I really like the aesthetic changes that have been introduced. I much prefer the “winglet-style” lugs, and, though I'm sure I will receive some flack for this, the skeleton hour hand to those in the previous model. The new World Timer also introduces a new city disc to reflect recent changes in time zone designations that made the previous production run (semi) obsolete.
6. The TAG Heuer Monza Chronograph
With the help of Jean-Claude Biver, TAG Heuer is once again grabbing headlines. Disruptive watches such as the Connected and the Carerra Heuer-02T have created a lot of buzz, but what I’m much more excited about are the re-editions of their racing chronographs. Following the announcement of the Autavia’s comeback in 2017, TAG Heuer unveiled a beautiful new Monza Chronograph. It’s been completely rebuilt around Calibre 17, but it borrows the iconic color scheme of the original. I was initially turned off by its size when the official diameter was announced (42 mm) but the cushion shape of the case and its black robe make it feel smaller in person.
7. The MB&F HMX Black Badger
They say lightning doesn’t strike twice. Well, it does at MB&F. The HMX was a massive hit when the independent brand introduced it 12 months ago, and I can see this limited edition doing well once again. Made in collaboration with James "Black Badger" Thompson, the founder of Black Badger Composites (which makes luminescent jewelry and design objects) this driver’s watch – the time is displayed at a 90-degree angle so it shows when the driver is holding the wheel – is inspired by Superleggera lines. MB&F has asked the lord of the lume rings to bring his totally unique flavor to the design by injecting three timepieces with AGT Ultra. It’s not a watch for everyone, depending on taste and in a very real sense, wallet size – the new HMX will retail at a list price of $50,000. But it’s hard to deny that it looks incredibly cool.
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