A surprise hit of the 2015 Baselworld show was the Slim d'Hermes watch, an absolutely stunning modern dress watch from Hermes that features an in-house caliber and downright beautiful facade – not to mention an elegant profile. We reviewed it right here, and our resident Frenchman Louis found it to be positively charming. This year, the watch returns in new dial colors but also in a 100 piece limited edition featuring a three-layer grand feu enamel dial that is absolutely remarkable.
The Slim d'Hermes Grand Feu Email is identical to the existing Slim d'Hermes – the same 39.5mm case, the same caliber H1950 with micro-rotor and 42 hour power reserve, and the same thin case. What we have here now is a just lovely enamel dial made the old-fashioned way – completed in three separate parts, with feet attached by hand, and even enamel printing.
Like with all grand feu enamel dials, a the copper disc is coated on both sides with an inflammable liquid before the enameler him or herself applies a thin later of enmal powder. Then, the dial goes into a kiln at 830° C, thus the term "grand feu" or "great heat".
The dial catches fire instantly, and the powder fuses with the copper surface to become the dial. After the first run, the enamel is transparent, and the enameler will repeat the process of coating and dustting and firing fix or six times until the dial is intensely white, smooth and shiny. This particular dial consists of three levels – one for the hour markers, a second for the center, and a third for the sub-seconds at 6 o'clock.
From there, the watch is pad printed and then dial markers each filled in with liquid enamel. All of this work, done in the most traditional of manners, is completed by Donzé Cadrans in Le Locle, a well-known enameler dating back to the early 70s that was acquired by Ulysse Nardin in 2011, but remains an active supplier to the finest watch manufactures in the world.
In The Metal
What's interesting to note about this 100 piece limited edition is that it tweaks the dial, and the dial is surely the most lauded aspect of the original design. Mr. Philippe Apeloig designed the font specifically for this watch, giving it a light rythm that frankly, just about everyone we've spoken to admires. Here, because the dial is grand feu, the printing isn't as light as on the normal production watch, but the depth and sheen of the three-piece enamel more than make up for that.
Over all, the Slim d'Hermes Grand Feu Email is a stunning, traditionalist's take on what is becoming a favorite for many watching the leather-maker's increasingly impressive foray into watchmaking. Only 100 pieces will be made, at a price of $23,000. More here.
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