This week, Bring A Loupe presents to you some truly iconic watches. We start with a Rolex Submariner, and then move on to the ground-breaking Zenith El Primero A386. Expect to also find a rare Breitling Cosmonaute in yellow gold, and a dressy Patek Philippe Calatrava in stainless steel. Yes, this is this kind of selection you will find today – a lineup of some classics that are classics for a reason.
A Rolex Submariner Reference 1680, With Tiffany-Signed Dial
The reference 1680 was the first Submariner to offer the date, more than 15 years after the launch of this iconic diving watch. It is obviously a practical complication that Rolex delivered in the most legible way thanks to their usual "cyclops", fixed on the top hat plexiglass that is only found on this reference. This gives the 1680 a really great angular profile, but this watch here has a little something more that changes everything. The Tiffany & Co line on the dial is highly coveted on vintage Rolexes. Rolex discontinued the co-branding with Tiffany in the early 1990s (though it continues to this day with Patek Philippe). In addition, this watch bears the Tiffany & Co. serial number, manually engraved under the lower right lug.
The dealer HQ Milton is offering this rare reference 1680 for $26,550 here.
A Zenith El Primero Reference A386, With Original Ladder Bracelet
A single glance is enough to understand the fascination around the Zenith A386: the tri-color register, the 38mm case and the weirdly attractive Gay Freres ladder-bracelet make a killer mix. And it is not only about looks – the reference A386 was one of the first Zeniths to carry the ground-breaking El Primero caliber. In 1969, this was one of the first automatic chronograph movements ever offered, alongside the Seiko 6139 and the Chronomatic movement (the latter born out of a technical collaboration between Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton). The debate still rages on about who was really first, but in any case, the El Primero was the only one to boast a 36,000 vph high-beat frequency. The watch here also stands out thanks to its outstanding condition, with an unpolished case, nicely patinated lume, and all original parts.
The German dealer Rare Birds is offering this revolutionary chrono for 16,500 Euros or around $18,500 here.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3483, With A Stainless Steel Case
The reference 96 was the first Calatrava released in the early 1930s, and it changed forever the design of dress watches. With vintage Calatravas, the stainless steel cases are by far the rarest and most coveted, hence the attraction of the rare references that only came cased in that material, such as the present reference 3483, manufactured in 1967. It does have everything you could wish for a dress watch (just look at the stunning brushed dial and the insane minute track!), and yet, it feels so modern at the same time. It might be the shape of the lugs or the sweep center second but there is definitely something that makes this 1960s watch feels very current and classy.
You can find this dressy Patek offered here; it comes with an Extract of the Archives.
Heuer Carrera Dato 45 Reference 3147N, With Date At 12 O'Clock
The beveled lugs tell you right away that you are looking at a Heuer Carrera, but the reference 3147 Dato comes with a twist (pretty obvious from its name). The 1st execution Dato presents a date-window at 12 o'clock in order to not upset the balance of the dial and the focus on its chronograph abilities. The date disc is red in order to contrast with the black dial, a clever touch that really makes this Carrera; interestingly the date was later moved to 9 o'clock in the 2nd execution, so the original placement might have had some opponents at the time. As you would expect, the chronograph does not come with a Valjoux caliber, but rather, the trusted the Landeron 189 chronograph movement to provide the date.
This Dato 45 is offered on eBay here; at the time of publishing, bidding was still below $4,000.
Eska Triple Calendar And Chronograph Watch
Eska might not be the most well known brand, but this is a beautiful example of a wonderful vintage chronograph nonetheless. First, the condition is truly remarkable, NOS as it is called, with a very sharp case and a perfect dial. Then, this watch offers the complications we love, a chronograph of course, but also a triple calendar with two upper guichets, in a design reminiscent of the Rolex Dato-Compax. The movement powering those complications is the workhorse Valjoux 72C, derived from the ubiquitous Valjoux 72.
The dealer Cars And Watches listed this minty Eska for 4,900 Euros or around $5,500 here.
Breitling Cosmonaute Reference 809, With Yellow Gold Case
The Cosmonaute name of this Breitling is not here only for the show, it was actually worn by the astronaut Scott Carpenter onboard space capsule Aurora 7. Legend has it, the astronaut and military test pilot personally requested to Breitling that his favorite model, the Navitimer, be offered a 24-hour dial to distinguish between day and night time, which lead to the launch of the Cosmonaute in 1961. As you know the Breitling did not eventually make it through the NASA selection process for an official NASA service watch; it was not ever tested as it lacked water-resistance, resulting in Scott Carpenter's personal example not surviving its landing in the Atlantic. It is nonetheless an extraordinarily good-looking tool watch, with a splendid gilt dial. And the rarity of the reference 809 in 18K gold should be emphasized as well.
You can find this extremely rare and well preserved Breitling Cosmomaute offered here.
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