This week marks my one-year anniversary writing Bring A Loupe, so I decided to do something different: limit the picks to the interesting watches seen on Instagram over the past few days. And to shake things up a little, we have a watch with some French heritage: a Tag Heuer Professional worn both by the Marine Nationale and James Bond, with a quartz movement no less. We've also got a "ghost" bezel Red Sub, a dressy Patek, a unique Laurent Ferrier, and a little known but seductive Sigma. This is your Bring A Loupe for June 24, 2016.
A Rolex Red Sub Reference 1680 With Patinated Bezel
A faded bezel can really change the appearance of a watch, as you can see from any number of vintage GMT Masters. But it also applies to other Rolex sport models, as proven by this "Red" Sub with a splendid ghost bezel. Its grey color really makes the red line of the Mk4 dial pop. There is a good resource on "Red dial" versions here, showing how rare those are in comparison to the later "white" dials. This Sub has a Triplock crown (recognizable by its larger size and three dots on its tip), which might be original – as Rolex's move from Twinlock to Triplock dates from 1972, the very same year this watch was made.
This Submariner is offered by a U.S. dealer for $14,500 on his Instagram page, and you can also see it on his website.
A Rare Tag Heuer Marine Nationale With Lume Dial
The French Marine Nationale did not limit its suppliers for dive watches to Tudor – they tried many alternatives, including Tag Heuer and this reference 980.113. Back in the 1980s, it was obviously a cheaper choice than the Tudor Snowflake. This 36 mm Tag has a quartz movement, and it offers a highly unusual full lume dial. This is of course a departure from the usual practice of applying lume to the hands and dial indexes alone, but it proved good enough for the French Navy as well as James Bond, who wore a similar watch in The Living Daylights (with a black PVD-coated case, hence the slightly different reference, 980.031). As with any MN-supplied watch, you should look carefully at the engravings on the case back; here the style and range of the 883XXX serial matches other legitimate MN examples.
The listing for this rare Tag Heuer can be found on the UK seller's website, or on his Instagram page.
A Unique Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller
"A Micro-Rotor For The Jet Set" – this was the description of the Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller when Ben reviewed it. The chronometer-certified movement presents indeed the highly regarded micro-rotor characteristic of the brand, with a simple and practical 24-hour indication of home time in the window at 9 o'clock. This watch comes with a twist: it is indeed a unique piece with a custom dial. And this special order was very well designed, the vertically brushed brown dial contrasting very nicely with the white-gold case. The seller hasn't provided a movement picture but to give you an idea, here's an image from Ben's review.
A U.S. collector is offering his custom Galet Traveller here; the condition is outstanding and the watch comes full set.
A Dressy Patek Philippe Reference 2569
Our look at some of the best of Instagram would not be complete without a dressy Patek, and we've got just the thing: this reference 2569. This piece is very representative of the elegance that Patek reached in the late 1950s, offering a 35.5 mm size still relevant today. I especially like that the dial comes with applied numerals, which take away some of the formal feel that the watch might have had otherwise. And, as with so many Pateks from that time, the sub-register for the running seconds is perfectly proportioned, and the lovely lines of the lugs show the attention given to case design.
A former guest of Talking Watches is offering this stunning Patek here.
An Oversized Sigma Bienne With Gilt Dial
Not much can be found online about Sigma, except for some vintage ads – but the watch deserves a long look, for its sheer size (the rectangular case being 52 mm long!) and its seductive black dial. The latter is described as gilt, from the printed gold font standing out from the glossy black finish. The hands and numerals almost have a Breguet feel to them, and properly fill up the length of a case reminiscent of a vintage Cartier Tank Allongee.
A Spanish dealer is offering this attractive Sigma for 1,250 euros (or around $1,500) here.
A Universal Geneve Tri-Compax Reference 222100-2, With Original Box And Papers
Regular HODINKEE readers and vintage watch lovers in general will all recognize the Tri-Compax from Universal Geneve – a triple calendar moonphase chronograph in a 35 mm case. It is quite an exploit to make the dial of a watch with so many complications look relatively uncluttered, and even more impressive to achieve such a beautiful harmony and legibility. As you might have noticed, the reference 222100 has been a favorite of BAL for its brushed silver dial (unique to this reference). This is vintage UG at its best; this one is offered with the original box and papers.
An Italian dealer is offering this full set Tri-Compax for 20,000 euros (or around $22,150). You can find another one in Italy, but without the box and papers – so it should come at a friendlier price tag.
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