Hands-On: The Omega Planet Ocean Deep Black Collection

The Omega Planet Ocean Deep Black Collection was just announced yesterday, with significant interest worldwide in a new GMT Planet Ocean timepiece with a ceramic case, in four different executions, and with Master Chronometer certification. We saw the entire collection shortly thereafter and have some initial thoughts to share, as well as live shots of the watches – which both confirm some widespread first impressions from the press release, as well as challenging some others (at least to some extent).

A quick review of the basics: the watches have full ceramic cases (they're marked with the chemical formula for the ceramic, zirconium dioxide, on the lugs and also on the dial – the latter very discreetly) and have screw-down case backs featuring the so-called Naiad locking system. The latter is a patented method of ensuring that the lettering (and, potentially, other decorative case back elements in the future) remain properly aligned with respect to the vertical and horizontal axes of the case. Water resistance is 600 m/2,000 ft, and there's a GMT function as well, with independent setting of the hour hand in one hour increments. The case is 45.5 mm x 17.8 mm thick; however the watch wears lighter thanks to the ceramic case construction. As the watch is a Master Chronometer, it carries METAS certification for magnetic resistance to 15,000 gauss, and also COSC certification for accuracy. The movement is Omega co-axial caliber 8906, with a 60-hour power reserve, two barrels, and a silicon balance spring. Pricing is slightly higher than you might expect for a Seamaster, but there are also a lot of distinguishing technical features for which a premium can be justified, and which add up to a watch that really does stand apart from a lot of its competition.

The bezels are ceramic, with a rubber inset for the first 15 minutes of the elapsed time scale, and Liquidmetal for the remaining minute indications. Omega has shown four models – with red accents, blue accents, all black, and a very handsome model with Sedna gold accents.

The all-black model is probably going to hold the most appeal for folks looking for a strong visual message about the technical features of the Planet Ocean Deep Blacks (it is, after all, the deepest black of the Deep Blacks).

On the wrist these watches wear more easily than you'd think from their dimensions, although obviously these are quite large timepieces no matter how you slice it. Still, the sharp downward angle of the strap attachment, plus the use of ceramic instead of steel, makes for a surprisingly wrist-friendly presence in a watch this size. For comparison, zirconium dioxide – the ceramic used for the case – has a density of 5.68 grams/cubic centimeter, while 316L stainless steel weighs in at about 8 grams/cc and titanium at 4.33 grams/cc.  

The one feature you almost certainly won't need is the helium release valve. A helium release valve does serve a purpose. Divers operating at great depths for extended periods of time generally breath special gas mixtures in which helium is often substituted for nitrogen. Nitrogen makes up the bulk of the Earth's atmosphere but under increased pressure, it can cause nitrogen narcosis, which can dangerously impair judgement. Helium atoms are small enough to get into the case of a watch past its gaskets, and during decompression, the gradual drop in external pressure may exceed the rate at which helium can escape, and this pressure difference can do things like pop the crystal off the watch. Helium escape valves have been around since the 1960s and, of course, unless you're a professional diver you have no use for one, but then again, unless you're a professional diver you don't need a dive watch in the first place, and while the helium escape valve is of no practical relevance to daily life, it is part of the symbolism of red-blooded bold adventure.

Our overall first impressions are of a very technically advanced mechanical dive watch, with an impressively comprehensive feature set. The biggest surprise was the better-than-expected wearability, thanks to the case design and case materials. Quality of fit and finish is not artisanal, but it is excellent and the various models each offer something a little different in terms of visuals. This is an interesting (if large) addition to the Planet Ocean lineup, and is worth a look from anyone interested in a bold visual statement in a technical tool watch, who also cares about having much more in the way of qualitative advantages than they're ever likely to need.

For someone looking for a smaller Omega that offers similar bang for the buck in terms of features, there's the non-METAS-certified, 600-meter-water-resistant GoodPlanet Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT, at 43.5 mm in diameter; if you don't need the extreme water resistance, and can live without the GMT function, the Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial offers the same degree of protection against magnetic fields, in a 41 mm stainless-steel case.

For more on the new Planet Ocean Deep Black Collection, visit omegawatches.com. Black, red, and blue models priced at CHF 10,400; Sedna Gold, 13,900 CHF.