Vacheron Constantin has just announced three new versions of three of its most critically acclaimed watches. The Historiques Cornes de Vache, Historiques American 1921, and Historiques Ultra-Fine 1955 are now offered in three new case metals. The Cornes de Vache is now offered in pink gold, while the Ultra Fine 1955 and American 1921 will be offered for the first time in platinum.
First up is a new version of the Historiques American 1921 in platinum. This is definitely one of Vacheron's better known design wins in recent years and it's proven consistently popular with collectors and enthusiasts (as well as being something of a critic's darling). There's just something about the overall design that works – the placement of the crown on the case corner has something very devil-may-care about it without sacrificing real elegance, which I've always thought is what characterizes Vacheron's most identifiable designs at their best. We were actually lucky enough, by pure chance, to grab a wrist shot of this one at our first London get-together not long ago; it hadn't been officially announced but one of the attendees had just taken delivery of an early release.
Other than the new case metal, which really does bring you back to the 1920s (when platinum in particular, and white metals in general, were very popular for Deco-era watch designs) it's the same 1921 you know and love, with Vacheron's hand-wound caliber 4400 AS. We actually found an auction in which a 1921 and the vintage Vacheron design that inspired it were both in the same auction, back in 2012.
Next up is a new version of one of my personal favorites, the Les Historiques Ultra-Fine 1955. As we discussed in our recent series on ultra thin watchmaking, this is both a triumph of watchmaking and case-making, as making a very thin watch that is also somewhat water resistant and able to protect the movement is a significant challenge.
Again, platinum seems a very natural fit for this watch; a very appropriately discreet but very luxurious metal and a great interpretation of a modern classic. The movement's still only 1.64 mm thick with the case overall coming in at 4.13 mm (a quarter, for comparison, is 1.75 mm thick).
Last but not least, there's the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955, which hitherto has been available only in platinum. In white metal the watch definitely has all the austere charm you could want, but in the new interpretation, which is in pink gold with gold hands and an opaline dial, I think this design really comes into its own.
It's always been one of those watches that you take an interest in if you want all the beauty, versatility, and extremely high quality of a top-tier vintage two-register chronograph with all the immaculate quality and reliability you get from a freshly produced watch from a company like Vacheron, and in pink gold, the argument carries even more force. And of course the view is just as great from the back: the column-wheel caliber 1142.
All three watches will be appearing at Vacheron Constantin boutiques this very week; here's pricing:
Cornes de Vache 1955 in rose gold: $53,600
American 1921 in platinum: $44,000
Ultra-Fine 1955: $38,500
Check out our live pics/hands on coverage of the Cornes de Vache from Jason Heaton; and our Hands On with the Ultra-Fine 1955.
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